Why Salon Chains Need a Dedicated Factory Audit for Canvas Wine Carriers
Salon chains ordering custom canvas wine carriers face a different set of risks than general retail buyers. The carrier is often given as a gift to clients after a service, so it must look premium, feel sturdy, and not fail after one use. A factory that produces standard tote bags may not have the specific experience with wine carrier construction—especially handle reinforcement, bottom gusset stability, and print durability on curved surfaces. For a procurement manager, the stakes are high: a failed carrier reflects directly on the salon's brand and can lead to client complaints, returns, and lost repeat business. According to industry data, gift program failures due to product quality issues can reduce client retention by up to 15% in the first quarter after distribution.
A factory audit focused on canvas wine carriers helps you verify that the supplier understands these nuances. Without an audit, you risk receiving carriers with weak handles that tear under bottle weight, prints that fade after a few wipes, or gussets that cause bottles to tip. This guide walks through the eight checks that matter most for salon chains, from fabric weight to carton packing, so you can compare quotes and select a factory that delivers consistent quality. Each check is designed to be performed during an on-site visit or through a structured remote audit, giving your procurement team the data needed to make a confident sourcing decision.
The salon industry has unique requirements: carriers are often handed to clients in a retail-like setting, so the unboxing experience matters. A carrier that arrives with scuff marks, loose threads, or a misaligned print undermines the perceived value of the gift. By auditing the factory against the specs in this guide, you ensure that every carrier leaving the production line meets the same standard, whether it goes to a single location or 200 stores across the country. For salon chains with multiple locations, consistent quality across all shipments is critical to maintaining brand trust.
- Salon gift programs require carriers that withstand repeated handling and occasional cleaning; a single failure can damage client trust
- Standard tote bag factories may lack experience with wine carrier-specific construction details like gusset depth and handle bartack
- An audit focused on wine carrier specs reduces the risk of returns, complaints, and brand damage; aim for a defect rate below 2.5%
Fabric Weight (GSM): The First Spec to Verify in a Factory Audit
Canvas fabric weight is measured in grams per square meter (GSM). For a wine carrier that holds one standard 750 ml bottle, 340–400 GSM natural canvas is the sweet spot. Below 300 GSM, the fabric may sag under the bottle weight, especially if the carrier is carried by the handles for more than a few minutes. Above 450 GSM, the fabric becomes stiff and may not fold neatly around the bottle, and the cost per unit increases by 15–25%. For salon chains, the carrier must look structured but not rigid, and it should drape naturally when empty. A 100% cotton canvas in this range provides the best balance of durability, print quality, and cost.
During a factory audit, ask to see the fabric roll label and weigh a 1 m² sample on a calibrated scale. Some suppliers may quote a higher GSM but deliver a lighter fabric to save cost. If the factory cannot provide a fabric weight certificate or a sample for weighing, that is a red flag. For salon chains ordering 1,000+ units, a 20 GSM difference can affect the carrier's perceived quality and durability. We recommend cutting a 10 cm × 10 cm swatch from the roll, weighing it on a precision scale, and multiplying by 100 to calculate the actual GSM. Compare this to the quoted spec and reject if the deviation exceeds ±5%.
Also, consider the fabric composition. 100% cotton canvas is the standard, but some suppliers may blend polyester to reduce cost. A polyester blend can affect print adhesion and may feel less premium to the touch. Ask for a fiber content certificate or perform a burn test on a small swatch: cotton burns to ash, while polyester melts and forms a hard bead. For salon gift programs, 100% cotton canvas in the 340–400 GSM range provides the best balance of durability, print quality, and cost. Request a fabric weight certificate with each production lot to ensure consistency.
- Request a fabric weight certificate from the supplier or test a sample yourself; acceptable tolerance is ±5% of quoted GSM
- Compare the quoted GSM to the actual weight of a 1 m² piece from the production roll; a 20 GSM difference can affect quality
- For salon gift programs, 340–400 GSM 100% cotton canvas provides the best balance of durability, print quality, and cost
Handle Reinforcement: Why Double-Stitched Webbing Matters for Salon Gift Programs
The handle is the most stressed part of a wine carrier. A single-stitched handle or narrow webbing (less than 20 mm) may fail after 20–30 uses, especially if the carrier is handed to clients who may carry it by the handles only. For salon chains, the carrier must withstand repeated handling, occasional drops, and possibly light cleaning. Double-stitched cotton webbing, 25 mm wide, with a bartack at the attachment point, is the minimum standard. The bartack—a dense zigzag stitch—reinforces the stress point where the handle meets the body of the carrier. Without a bartack, the seam can unravel under a 5 kg load within 10 seconds.
During a factory audit, perform a simple pull test: hang a 5 kg weight from the handle for 30 seconds. Check for stitch elongation, webbing deformation, or any sign of failure. If the factory cannot demonstrate this test or does not have a test fixture, consider it a warning. Also, verify that the handle attachment is reinforced with a bartack stitch, not just a straight seam. A straight seam alone can unravel under load, while a bartack distributes the force across multiple stitches. For salon chains, we recommend testing 5 random samples per production lot and documenting the results with photos.
For salon chains, consider the handle length as well. A handle that is too short makes it difficult to carry the bottle comfortably; too long, and the carrier may drag on the ground. The standard handle drop (distance from the top of the handle to the top of the carrier) is 10–12 cm. Measure this on the sample and ensure it matches your spec. Also, check that the webbing is cut cleanly and the ends are folded under before stitching to prevent fraying. A well-constructed handle should withstand at least 50 uses without visible wear.
- Double-stitched webbing with bartack reinforcement is the industry standard for wine carriers; without bartack, seam may fail under 5 kg load
- Test handle strength with a 5 kg load for 30 seconds; reject if any stitch pulls or webbing tears; test on 5 random samples per lot
- Narrow webbing (<20 mm) or single stitching is acceptable only for lightweight promotional items, not salon gift programs
Print Method and Durability: Screen Print vs. Digital Print for Canvas Wine Carriers
Screen printing with plastisol or water-based ink is the most durable option for canvas wine carriers. Plastisol ink sits on top of the fabric and resists fading, while water-based ink absorbs into the fibers for a softer feel. Both methods, when properly cured at 160–170°C for 60–90 seconds, can withstand 20–30 washes without significant fading. Digital print, while cheaper for small runs, often has lower opacity on natural canvas and may fade after 5–10 washes. For salon chains, the print is often the brand's logo or a promotional message, so durability is non-negotiable. A faded print within the first month of use can damage brand perception.
During a factory audit, ask to see a print adhesion test. Rub the print area with a dry white cloth for 10 seconds. If any ink transfers to the cloth, the print is not properly cured. Also, check the print alignment on a curved surface—wine carriers often have a curved front panel, and misaligned prints look unprofessional. For salon chains ordering 500+ units, screen printing is the recommended method. Ask the factory about their curing process: plastisol requires a conveyor dryer at 160–170°C for 60–90 seconds, while water-based ink needs a longer dwell time at a lower temperature. Request a curing temperature log for each production run.
Color consistency is another critical factor. Ask the factory how they match colors to your Pantone reference. A factory using a spectrophotometer and mixing inks in-house can achieve a ΔE ≤ 2.0, which is the threshold for a visible color difference. If the factory outsources ink mixing, color consistency may vary between production runs. For salon chains with strict brand guidelines, request a color match certificate with each production lot. Also, ask about the ink's resistance to UV light and cleaning agents, as carriers may be exposed to salon products.
- Screen print with plastisol or water-based ink offers the best durability for canvas wine carriers; withstands 20–30 washes
- Digital print is suitable for small runs (<500 units) but may fade after 5–10 washes; lower opacity on natural canvas
- Perform a rub test on the sample to verify print adhesion before bulk production; reject if any ink transfers after 10 strokes
Bottom Gusset Design: How Gusset Depth Affects Bottle Stability and Carrier Appearance
A wine carrier with a flat bottom gusset keeps the bottle upright and prevents tipping. For a standard 750 ml bottle, an 8–10 cm gusset depth is ideal. A gusset that is too shallow (less than 6 cm) may cause the bottle to lean, especially if the carrier is placed on a car seat or table. A gusset that is too deep (more than 12 cm) may create excess fabric that bunches up and looks sloppy. The gusset also affects the carrier's footprint: a wider gusset provides more stability but increases the overall width, which may affect packing density. For salon chains, the carrier must look neat even when empty, so the gusset should fold flat when not in use.
During a factory audit, measure the gusset depth on the sample using a ruler. Also, check that the gusset is stitched securely to the side panels. Some factories may cut corners by using a single stitch on the gusset seam, which can open under load. For salon chains, the carrier must look neat even when empty, so the gusset should fold flat when not in use. Test this by folding the carrier flat and checking for any bunching or uneven edges. A well-constructed gusset should have at least two rows of stitching and an overlock finish to prevent fraying.
The gusset construction method also matters. A box gusset (where the bottom is formed by folding the fabric into a rectangular shape) is more stable than a simple seam gusset. Ask the factory to show you a cross-section of the gusset seam. It should have at least two rows of stitching, and the fabric edges should be finished with an overlock stitch to prevent fraying. For salon chains, a well-constructed gusset ensures the carrier looks premium and functions reliably. Test the gusset by placing a full bottle in the carrier and checking for any leaning or tipping.
- 8–10 cm gusset depth is the standard for one-bottle canvas wine carriers; shallower gussets cause tipping, deeper gussets create bulk
- Measure gusset depth on the sample and compare to the spec in the quote; acceptable tolerance is ±0.5 cm
- Check that the gusset seam is double-stitched with an overlock finish; single-stitched gussets may open under load
Stitch Density (SPI): A Simple Check That Reveals Factory Quality
Stitches per inch (SPI) is a quick indicator of sewing quality. For canvas wine carriers, 8–10 SPI is the standard for all seams, including side seams, bottom gusset, and handle attachment. Below 6 SPI, the seam may open under load, especially at the bottom where the bottle rests. Above 12 SPI, the fabric may pucker, and production speed slows down by 15–20%. Consistent SPI across all seams indicates well-maintained machines and skilled operators. For salon chains, consistent SPI across all carriers is essential for a professional look.
During a factory audit, use a stitch gauge or a ruler to count stitches over one inch on the side seam and bottom gusset. If the SPI varies significantly between seams, it may indicate inconsistent machine tension or operator skill. For salon chains ordering 1,000+ units, consistent SPI across all carriers is essential for a professional look. Also, check the thread type: bonded nylon or polyester thread is stronger than cotton thread and resists abrasion better. Ask the factory for the thread specification and verify it against the sample.
A deeper audit should include a seam strength test. Apply a 3 kg load perpendicular to the side seam for 10 seconds. The seam should not open, and stitch elongation should not exceed 2 mm. This test simulates the stress of carrying a full wine bottle. If the factory cannot perform this test, ask for a third-party test report from a lab like SGS or Intertek. For salon chains, a seam strength test on 3 samples per production lot provides confidence in the carrier's durability.
- 8–10 SPI is the standard for canvas wine carriers; reject below 6 SPI as seams may open under load
- Check SPI on at least three different seams: side, bottom, and handle attachment; inconsistent SPI indicates poor machine maintenance
- Inconsistent SPI may indicate poor machine maintenance or operator training; request a seam strength test for verification
Sample Approval Timeline: Why 7–10 Days Is the Right Expectation
A factory that offers a 2-day sample turnaround may be skipping important steps. A proper proto sample for a canvas wine carrier requires fabric cutting, sewing, print setup, and curing. Rushing the process often leads to poor print adhesion, misaligned seams, or incorrect gusset depth. For first-time orders, a 7–10 business day timeline for the proto sample, followed by 3–5 days for revisions, is realistic. This timeline allows the factory to source the correct fabric, set up screens, and perform in-line QC checks. For salon chains, a rushed sample increases the risk of bulk production defects.
During a factory audit, ask to see the sample approval workflow. Does the factory take a photo of the sample before shipping? Do they have a formal approval form? A factory that treats sample approval as a casual step may also treat bulk production casually. For salon chains, a pre-production sample (PPS) is recommended before bulk cutting to catch any issues early. The PPS should be made from the same fabric lot and with the same settings as the bulk order. Allow 3–5 days for revision if the PPS does not meet your specs.
Also, clarify the revision process. If the first sample has issues, how many revision rounds are included in the sample cost? Some factories charge for each revision, while others include one or two rounds. For salon chains, budget for at least one revision round to fine-tune the print placement or handle length. Request a sample photo before shipping to verify color and construction. A formal approval form signed by both parties reduces the risk of misunderstandings.
- Expect 7–10 business days for the first proto sample; 3–5 days for revisions; a 2-day sample may skip critical QC steps
- Ask for a sample photo before shipping to verify color and construction; request a formal approval form
- Request a pre-production sample (PPS) for final approval before bulk cutting; allow 3–5 days for revision if needed
MOQ Logic: How to Evaluate Minimum Order Quantities for Salon Chains
Minimum order quantities (MOQ) for canvas wine carriers typically range from 500 to 1,000 pieces per color per design. A factory that offers a lower MOQ (e.g., 200 pieces) may be using a different production method, such as digital print, or may be willing to absorb setup costs for a first order. However, lower MOQs often come with a higher unit price, so it is important to compare the total cost, not just the MOQ number. For salon chains, the MOQ should align with your distribution plan: a chain with 50 locations may need 1,000 pieces for a seasonal promotion, while a chain with 200 locations may need 5,000 pieces for a year-round program.
During a factory audit, ask for a price breakdown by order quantity: 500, 1,000, 2,500, and 5,000 pieces. This helps you understand the cost structure and plan for future reorders. Look for the point where the unit price drops significantly—this is often the factory's efficient production batch size. Also, ask if the factory offers a discount for repeat orders without a new setup fee. Some factories waive screen charges for reorders within 12 months. For salon chains, a 10–15% discount on reorders can significantly reduce total cost.
Consider the inventory carrying cost. Ordering 5,000 pieces when you only need 1,000 ties up capital and storage space. However, if the unit price at 5,000 pieces is 30% lower, the total cost may still be lower even after accounting for storage. For salon chains, work with your finance team to calculate the total landed cost, including freight, duties, and storage, to determine the optimal order quantity. A cost-per-unit analysis across order quantities helps identify the best value.
- MOQ of 500–1,000 pieces per color per design is standard for screen-printed canvas wine carriers; lower MOQs often mean digital print
- Lower MOQs may have higher unit prices; compare total cost, not just MOQ; ask for a price breakdown by order quantity
- Ask for a price breakdown by order quantity to plan for future reorders; look for a 10–15% discount on repeat orders
Carton Packing: Why Polybagging and Carton Weight Matter for Salon Distribution
Carton packing is often overlooked but critical for salon chains that distribute carriers to multiple store locations. Each carrier should be individually polybagged to protect against dust, scuff marks, and moisture during shipping. The carton weight should not exceed 15 kg to avoid handling injuries and to keep freight costs reasonable. Overweight cartons (above 20 kg) are difficult to handle and may incur additional shipping charges. For salon chains, consistent packing ensures that each store receives carriers in good condition, ready for immediate use.
During a factory audit, ask to see a packed carton. Check that the carriers are neatly stacked, polybagged, and that the carton is sealed with reinforced tape. Also, verify the carton dimensions and weight against the shipping quote. Some factories may underfill cartons to reduce weight, which increases the number of cartons and shipping cost. For salon chains, specify the carton marking: each carton should be labeled with the purchase order number, quantity, and destination store code if drop-shipping. This reduces the risk of misrouting.
Polybag quality matters too. A thin polybag (less than 30 microns) can tear during transit, exposing the carrier to dust and moisture. Ask the factory to use polybags with a minimum thickness of 30 microns and a resealable adhesive strip. For salon chains, this small detail ensures that the carrier arrives in pristine condition, enhancing the client's unboxing experience. Also, check that the carton is made of export-grade corrugated board with a burst strength of at least 200 psi to withstand stacking during shipping.
- Each carrier should be individually polybagged with polybag thickness ≥30 microns to protect against dust and scuffs
- Carton weight should not exceed 15 kg for safe handling and lower freight costs; overweight cartons increase injury risk and cost
- Verify carton dimensions and weight against the shipping quote to avoid surprises; specify carton marking for drop-shipping
Factory Quote Questions: What to Ask Before Placing a Bulk Order
A factory quote for canvas wine carriers should include more than just a unit price. It should specify fabric weight (GSM), print method, handle type, gusset depth, stitch density, packing details, lead time, and payment terms. Without these details, you cannot compare quotes accurately. For salon chains, it is also important to ask about defect tolerance and replacement policy. A factory that provides a detailed, transparent quote is more likely to deliver consistent quality. A quote that lacks specifics is a red flag for potential quality issues.
During a factory audit, use the quote questions listed in this guide to gather consistent information from each supplier. Compare the responses side by side, and look for factories that provide clear, detailed answers. A factory that avoids specific questions or provides vague answers may be hiding weaknesses in their production process. For salon chains, a transparent supplier is a reliable partner. Also, ask for references from other salon or retail clients who have ordered similar products. A factory with experience in salon gift programs will understand your quality requirements.
Payment terms are another key factor. Standard terms for first-time orders are 30% deposit with the order and 70% before shipment, after a final inspection. Some factories may offer Net 30 terms after a successful first order. For salon chains, negotiate payment terms that align with your cash flow and include a holdback for defective units. A 5% holdback for 30 days after delivery gives you leverage if quality issues arise. Also, clarify the inspection process: will a third-party inspector be allowed on-site? This ensures quality control before shipment.
- Ask for a detailed quote that includes fabric weight, print method, handle type, gusset depth, and packing details; vague quotes are a red flag
- Compare quotes side by side to identify inconsistencies or hidden costs; look for factories with salon gift program experience
- A transparent supplier who answers specific questions is more likely to deliver consistent quality; negotiate payment terms with a 5% holdback
Specification comparison for buyers
| Spec decision | Recommended option | When it fits | Buyer risk to check |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fabric weight (GSM) | 340–400 GSM natural canvas, 100% cotton | Salon gift programs with moderate use; holds one 750 ml bottle securely | Below 300 GSM may sag under bottle weight; above 450 GSM increases cost and stiff fold lines; polyester blend reduces print adhesion |
| Handle type | Double-stitched cotton webbing, 25 mm width, bartack reinforcement | Carriers handed to clients; handles must not rip under 5 kg test load for 30 seconds | Single-stitched or narrow webbing (<20 mm) fails after 20–30 uses; no bartack increases seam failure risk |
| Print method | Screen print with plastisol or water-based ink, cured at 160–170°C for 60–90 seconds | Orders above 500 units; consistent color on natural canvas with ΔE ≤ 2.0 | Digital print may fade after 5–10 washes; low ink opacity on dark canvas; improper curing leads to ink transfer |
| Bottom gusset | Flat box gusset, 8–10 cm depth, double-stitched with overlock finish | Bottle must stand upright without tipping; gusset adds stability and neat appearance when empty | No gusset or shallow gusset (<6 cm) causes bottle to lean and spill; single-stitched gusset may open under load |
| Stitch density | 8–10 stitches per inch (SPI) on all seams, bonded nylon or polyester thread | All seams, especially side, bottom gusset, and handle attachment | Below 6 SPI leads to seam opening under load; above 12 SPI slows production and may pucker fabric; inconsistent SPI indicates poor machine maintenance |
| Sample approval timeline | 7–10 business days for proto sample; 3–5 days for revision; PPS before bulk cutting | Standard for first-time orders; allows fit, print, and color check | Factory offering 2-day sample may skip QC steps; ask for sample photo before shipping; no PPS increases bulk defect risk |
| MOQ per color | 500–1,000 pieces per color per design for screen printing | Salon chain with 50+ locations; single color run for seasonal promotion | Below 500 pieces may incur setup fee or higher unit price; above 1,000 pieces without sales forecast risks overstock; lower MOQ often means digital print with lower durability |
| Carton packing | 50 pieces per carton, individual polybag (≥30 microns), carton weight <15 kg, export-grade corrugated box | Standard for salon distribution to multiple stores; ensures dust-free, scuff-free arrival | Overweight cartons (>20 kg) cause handling injuries and higher freight; no polybag leads to dust and scuff marks; thin polybag (<30 microns) tears during transit |
Buyer checklist before sampling
- Confirm fabric weight (GSM) in supplier quote and compare to physical sample using a scale and ruler; cut a 10 cm × 10 cm swatch from the production roll, weigh on a precision scale, and multiply by 100 to calculate actual GSM. Acceptable tolerance: ±5% of quoted GSM.
- Request stitch density measurement on sample seam using a stitch gauge; reject if below 8 SPI on side seams, bottom gusset, and handle attachment points. Document SPI for at least three seams per carrier.
- Test handle strength by hanging a 5 kg weight for 30 seconds; check for stitch elongation, webbing deformation, or tear. Perform on 5 random samples per production lot. Document with photos for your audit report.
- Perform a print adhesion test: rub print area with a dry white cloth for 10 strokes; no ink transfer. Repeat with a slightly damp cloth to simulate light cleaning. Test on both flat and curved surfaces of the carrier.
- Measure bottom gusset depth with a ruler; must be at least 8 cm for one-bottle carrier and within ±0.5 cm of spec. Check that the gusset folds flat when empty and is double-stitched with an overlock finish.
- Verify carton weight and dimensions; weigh a full carton on a calibrated scale and compare to the shipping quote. Ensure each carrier is polybagged individually with polybag thickness ≥30 microns.
- Ask for a sample photo before shipment; compare to approved proto sample for color, construction, and print alignment. Use a Pantone reference under D65 light. Request a color match certificate with ΔE ≤ 2.0.
- Request a pre-production sample (PPS) for final approval before bulk cutting. This sample must come from actual production materials and settings. Allow 3–5 days for revision if needed.
- Inspect seam alignment on at least 5 random samples from the production line; misaligned seams by more than 2 mm indicate poor operator training. Document with photos.
- Check for loose threads, skipped stitches, or fabric flaws on 10% of a finished batch; document defect rate and compare to agreed AQL (typically 2.5% for major defects, 4.0% for minor defects).
Factory quote questions to send
- What is your standard MOQ for a single-color screen-printed canvas wine carrier? Is there a setup fee for lower quantities, and does it include screen charges?
- Can you provide a breakdown of unit price by order quantity: 500, 1,000, 2,500, and 5,000 pieces? Include any tooling or plate charges separately.
- What is your lead time for a first-time order including sample approval? How about reorder lead time, and does it change if we adjust the print design?
- Do you offer a pre-production sample (PPS) before bulk production? What is the cost and turnaround, and is it made with the same fabric lot as the bulk order?
- What is your defect tolerance? Do you replace defective units or offer a credit? Specify the AQL level you follow for final inspection (e.g., AQL 2.5 for major defects).
- Can you share a recent factory audit report or third-party inspection certificate? We prefer reports from SGS, Intertek, or Bureau Veritas dated within the last 12 months.
- What is your carton packing standard? Do you polybag each carrier? What is the maximum carton weight, and do you use export-grade corrugated boxes?
- Do you offer any print method alternatives (e.g., heat transfer, embroidery) and how do they affect cost, MOQ, and durability on 340–400 GSM canvas?
- What is your policy on color matching? Do you use a spectrophotometer, and can you guarantee ΔE ≤ 2.0 against our Pantone reference?
- How do you handle fabric shrinkage? Do you pre-wash canvas before cutting, and what is the expected shrinkage rate after the first wash?
Quality-control points to confirm
- Fabric weight check: random sample from roll; weigh 1 m² and compare to spec. Acceptable tolerance: ±5% of quoted GSM. Reject if deviation exceeds 5%.
- Stitch inspection: measure SPI on side seam and bottom gusset using a stitch gauge; reject if below 8 SPI. Check at least 3 seams per carrier.
- Handle pull test: apply 5 kg load for 30 seconds; no stitch break or webbing tear. Test on 5 random samples per production lot. Document results.
- Print adhesion test: rub with dry white cloth for 10 strokes; no ink transfer. Also test with a slightly damp cloth to simulate light cleaning. Reject if any ink transfers.
- Color match: compare print to Pantone reference under D65 light; ΔE ≤ 2.0. Use a calibrated spectrophotometer if available. Request a color match certificate.
- Gusset depth: measure with ruler; must be within ±0.5 cm of spec. Check that the gusset seam is double-stitched and free of puckering. Reject if single-stitched.
- Carton weight: weigh full carton; must not exceed 15 kg. Verify carton dimensions against the shipping quote to avoid freight reclassification.
- Polybag condition: each carrier must be sealed in individual polybag; no dust or scuff marks. Polybag thickness should be at least 30 microns. Reject if torn or thin.
- Seam strength test: apply a 3 kg load perpendicular to the side seam for 10 seconds; no seam opening or stitch elongation beyond 2 mm. Test on 3 samples per lot.
- Visual inspection: check for loose threads, skipped stitches, or fabric flaws on 10% of a finished batch. Document defect rate and compare to agreed AQL (2.5% major, 4.0% minor).