1. Start with the finished bag, not the artwork file
For canvas messenger bags for coffee roasters, logo placement is a production specification first and a design decision second. The finished bag has a flap that bends, side gussets that change the front shape, straps that cross the visual field, pockets that interrupt flat space, and closures that need clearance. A logo that looks centered on a flat mockup can shift once the flap folds over the loaded body of the bag.
Procurement teams should make the logo zone measurable before asking suppliers for firm pricing. A request that says “logo on front” leaves too much room for interpretation. One factory may assume a lower body print. Another may print the flap panel before sewing. A third may center the logo against the raw cut panel instead of the finished flap edge. Those choices affect cost, setup, defect rate, and the way bulk goods are inspected.
Coffee roaster merchandise usually has a careful brand balance. The bag should feel useful and durable, not like disposable event swag. At the same time, the logo has to read cleanly in a cafe retail display, on a wholesale order desk, or in a staff-use program. That is why finished-bag reference points matter more than the prettiest early rendering.
The best RFQ gives suppliers the intended logo zone, maximum logo size, minimum clearance, decoration method, canvas weight, and tolerance. Then the pre-production sample confirms the physical result. Once that PPS is approved, the same measurements should appear in the purchase order and inspection file.
- Use finished-bag measurements for placement, not raw panel dimensions alone.
- Define the reference point: flap edge, fold line, body centerline, snap center, buckle line, or visual center.
- Ask whether decoration happens before sewing, after partial assembly, or after full assembly.
- Attach approved sample photos with millimeter measurements to the PO or QC file.
- Write placement tolerance, rotation limits, and rejectable defects before bulk production starts.
2. Lock construction before approving logo size
Logo size should not be finalized until the messenger bag construction is fixed. A compact cafe merchandise bag, a flat document messenger, and a wider commuter-style messenger can all be made from canvas, but their branding zones are very different. Flap depth, gusset width, closure position, pocket layout, and strap attachment all decide how much clean area remains for decoration.
Canvas weight also changes both feel and production behavior. Common sourcing references include 10 oz, 12 oz, 14 oz, and 16 oz cotton canvas. Using the common oz/yd² to GSM conversion, these are approximately 339, 407, 475, and 542 GSM. For most B2B coffee roaster programs, 12 oz to 16 oz is the practical range. A 12 oz bag can work for lighter merchandise or launch quantities. A 14 oz canvas gives better structure for a visible flap logo. A 16 oz bag feels more substantial, but it increases carton weight and needs more care around layered panels.
Do not assume every panel uses the same material. Some suppliers use heavier canvas on the outer shell and lighter fabric for pockets, lining, or internal dividers. That may be acceptable, but it should be specified. If the logo sits on the flap, the flap material, lining, and reinforcement are the priority because they influence print smoothness, embroidery pucker, patch sewing, and how the flap closes.
Construction sequence deserves one direct question in every RFQ. Printing before sewing gives a flatter surface and may improve ink coverage, but sewing and folding must then land the artwork in the correct finished position. Printing after assembly can align to the final bag shape, but seams, gussets, snaps, and buckles may restrict equipment access. Neither route is automatically better; the right route depends on the logo zone and the factory’s process controls.
- 10 oz / about 339 GSM: lighter promotional feel, lower freight weight, more wrinkle risk for large logos.
- 12 oz / about 407 GSM: balanced option for mid-tier merchandise and event programs.
- 14 oz / about 475 GSM: stronger structure and a practical base for visible flap branding.
- 16 oz / about 542 GSM: premium hand feel, higher carton weight, and more care needed around seams and closures.
- Confirm flap depth, gusset width, pocket layout, closure type, lining, and reinforcement before approving logo size.
- Ask whether decoration is panel print, partial-assembly print, or finished-bag decoration.
3. Compare logo zones by visibility and risk
The front flap is usually the most visible branding zone. When a messenger bag hangs in a cafe, sits in a merchandise display, or appears in product photography, the flap works like a small signboard. It suits roaster wordmarks, badge logos, and simple marks. The tradeoff is interference: flaps often include fold lines, edge stitching, snaps, magnetic closures, buckle straps, hook-and-loop tabs, piping, or reinforcement layers.
As an RFQ starting point, many buyers keep artwork 20 to 30 mm from finished edges and 25 to 35 mm from snaps, buckles, rivets, hook-and-loop strips, and zipper ends. These are not universal rules. A round badge may need more breathing room than a narrow wordmark. A long horizontal logo may need extra side clearance so it does not look squeezed between stitch lines.
The lower front body can be cleaner when the flap is shallow or crowded. It is often flatter and less affected by folding, but it may be partly covered when the bag is closed. That can be fine for understated branding and less ideal for retail display. The back panel works for discreet staff bags or corporate gifts, although it receives more abrasion from clothing during wear. Side gusset printing is possible on some patterns, but the area is smaller and alignment is harder to judge.
Woven labels, sewn cotton patches, and leather-look patches give coffee brands a quieter retail language. A side seam woven label can be repeatable across orders, but it has its own artwork, label MOQ, color approval, and sewing tolerance. A patch can look premium on natural canvas, yet it still needs placement control, stitch inspection, and material approval.
- Front flap: highest visibility, highest risk from folds, hardware, and edge stitching.
- Lower front body: flatter decoration surface, but may be partly hidden by the flap.
- Back panel: discreet branding, but higher abrasion against clothing during use.
- Side gusset: useful for secondary branding, with limited space and harder alignment.
- Woven side label: consistent subtle branding for repeat programs and private-label runs.
- Patch branding: premium retail look, with added material setup, sewing, and placement QC.
4. Define printable area separately from artwork size
A printable area is not the same as the logo size. The printable area is the safe finished-bag zone where decoration can be applied without crossing seams, fold lines, closures, pocket openings, or high-abrasion areas. The artwork size is the actual logo inside that zone. Buyers should ask suppliers to state both. A flap may measure 300 mm wide by 220 mm deep, while the practical logo box may be closer to 190 mm by 90 mm after clearance is deducted.
Use fixed finished points. For a flap logo, measure from the finished left edge to logo left, finished right edge to logo right, fold line to artwork top, lower flap edge to artwork bottom, and nearest hardware center to the closest logo edge. For a lower body logo, measure from side seam or gusset seam, the bottom of the closed flap, pocket opening, and bottom seam. Mark these measurements on actual sample photos.
Visual centering can be different from mathematical centering. Buckle straps, asymmetric pockets, contrast webbing, and curved flap edges can make a logo look wrong even when the ruler says it is centered. If visual balance is important, the signed PPS should show the approved look and the measurement sheet should explain how it was judged.
Rotation needs its own rule. A logo can pass left-right tolerance and still look tilted. This is especially noticeable on circular badge logos, rectangular patches, and wordmarks with a strong baseline. For medium front logos, ±5 mm placement tolerance is a common starting point, but skew and rotation should be inspected separately.
- Ask for finished printable area and final artwork size as separate quote details.
- Deduct seam allowance, edge clearance, fold line, pocket opening, snap, buckle, rivet, zipper, and hook-and-loop areas.
- Use millimeter measurements on real sample photos, not only a digital layout.
- State whether dimensional center or visual center controls the approved placement.
- Define skew, rotation, and obvious off-centering as inspection points.
5. Match decoration to roaster artwork and canvas texture
Many coffee roaster logos are good candidates for screen printing. They often use bold wordmarks, simple badges, short text, and one or two spot colors. On natural canvas, dark brown, black, forest green, navy, or deep red can look clean and brand-appropriate. Canvas texture will still soften edges. A little weave showing through may be acceptable; heavy pinholes, ink drag, ghosting, double images, and broken small letters should be rejectable unless approved.
Heat transfer can help with multicolor artwork, small details, gradients, or logos that are difficult to hold by screen print on textured fabric. The buyer should review more than sharpness. Film thickness, edge flexibility, gloss level, bond strength, and hand feel all matter. A transfer that looks crisp but shiny may feel wrong on natural cotton canvas. The test sample should be on the actual canvas weight and color.
Embroidery has a premium feel, but it is not a cure-all. It works best for small marks, initials, compact badges, or side placements. Large dense embroidery on a flap can pucker the canvas, distort a lined panel, or make the flap close unevenly. If embroidery is required, ask for stitch count, backing type, thread colors, maximum recommended logo size, and whether extra reinforcement is needed.
Woven labels and patches are strong options for coffee merchandise that should feel retail-ready but not loud. Woven labels are consistent and subtle. Cotton patches can sit well with natural canvas. Leather-look patches may create a higher-end impression, but buyers should confirm material type, colorfastness, sewing method, and any destination-market requirements related to labeling or materials.
Dark canvas needs extra attention. Light logos on black, charcoal, dark brown, navy, or olive canvas often require a white underbase or extra ink passes. That can add cost, setup, curing time, and a thicker hand feel. The quote should state whether underbase is included, and the PPS should show the exact production method.
- Screen print: best for bold spot-color logos and efficient bulk decoration.
- Heat transfer: useful for fine detail and multicolor art; inspect gloss, thickness, adhesion, and cracking risk.
- Embroidery: premium for small marks; risky for large dense flap logos because of puckering.
- Woven label: consistent secondary branding with separate label MOQ and color approval.
- Patch: strong retail look, but adds material approval, stitching, and placement control.
- For dark canvas, confirm underbase, opacity, curing, and final hand feel in the quote and PPS.
6. Quote apples to apples: MOQ, setup, and lead time
Logo placement can change the price even when the artwork file does not change. A flat lower-front print may be faster than a flap print near a fold line, snap, buckle strap, or reinforced edge. If the factory prints before sewing, it must control panel orientation so the finished bag lands correctly. If it prints after assembly, it may need a jig and slower handling.
MOQ depends on how much customization is in the program. A stock messenger pattern in natural canvas with one-color screen print usually has the lowest complexity. Custom dyed canvas, contrast webbing, woven labels, patches, custom hardware, printed lining, special closures, and retail packing can raise MOQ because each component may have its own material minimum.
Ask suppliers to separate one-time costs from unit costs where possible. Screen setup, embroidery digitizing, transfer artwork preparation, woven label setup, patch tooling, sample fees, courier fees, and packing upgrades may be separate. Sometimes a supplier rolls them into the unit price. Either structure can work, but it must be clear enough for comparison.
Lead time should be staged. Ask for artwork proof time, fabric swatch or lab dip time, blank sample time, printed PPS time, material procurement, cutting, decoration, sewing, packing, final inspection, and shipment readiness. Also clarify what starts the bulk clock. “35 days after approval” means little unless approval is defined as artwork approval, sample approval, PPS approval, or deposit received.
- Lowest complexity: stock pattern, natural canvas, one-color screen print, standard packing.
- Moderate complexity: dark canvas underbase, custom logo placement, side woven label, contrast strap color.
- Higher complexity: new dimensions, custom dyed fabric, patches, embroidery, custom hardware, retail packing.
- Ask for alternate quote lines for flap print, lower-body print, and side-label branding.
- Separate sample fee, setup, decoration, labels, patches, packing upgrade, and carton dimensions.
- Define whether bulk lead time starts after deposit, artwork approval, fabric approval, blank sample, or printed PPS.
7. Build the sample route around real production risk
A digital mockup is useful early, but it cannot prove production. It will not show how the flap bends, how the logo aligns with snaps, how canvas texture affects ink, how a transfer feels, how embroidery puckers, or whether a patch changes flap closure. For B2B sourcing, the approved standard should be a real bag or a clearly documented sample photo set.
A two-step route is usually stronger. First, approve a blank fit sample when the pattern is new, modified, or important to the logo zone. This confirms finished dimensions, flap depth, side gusset, pocket layout, strap length, hardware position, and realistic printable areas. If the logo zone is too small or interrupted, fix the bag before decoration.
Second, approve a printed pre-production sample using production-like materials. It should use the intended canvas weight and finish, decoration method, hardware, stitch color, lining, label or patch, and packing method. If the supplier uses substitute fabric or temporary hardware to save time, mark the difference clearly and do not treat that sample as the only QC standard.
Photograph the sample closed, open, flat on a table, hanging by the strap, and packed if packing pressure is a concern. Write measurements directly on the photos. For flap logos, include distances from logo edges to flap edges, fold line, bottom edge, and hardware. For patches or labels, measure straightness, stitch line, and angle.
- Use a blank fit sample to confirm construction and printable zones before committing to final logo size.
- Use a printed PPS to approve placement, color, hand feel, decoration quality, and packing effect.
- Measure from finished edges, fold lines, seams, and hardware centers.
- Photograph the sample closed, open, carried, and packed where relevant.
- Mark measurements on photos so the factory, buyer, and inspector use the same references.
- Document all substitute-material sample differences before bulk approval.
8. Inspect placement, decoration quality, and bag function together
Quality control should be written before production starts. For a medium front logo, ±5 mm from the approved centerline is a practical starting tolerance, but it is not a universal standard. A small badge may need tighter placement because a small shift is obvious. A large wordmark may tolerate slight movement but show rotation more clearly. Match the tolerance to the artwork, bag size, decoration method, and retail expectation.
Inspectors should check more than one dimension. A logo can be centered left to right but too close to the lower flap edge. It can have the right height but be rotated. It can technically pass one measurement and still look wrong because a buckle strap or pocket changes the visual center. A useful inspection sheet checks horizontal position, vertical position, rotation, hardware clearance, and appearance when the bag is closed.
Decoration defects must be judged by method. For screen print, inspect opacity, coverage, registration, ink contamination, pinholes, smearing, ghosting, and curing. For heat transfer, inspect adhesion, lifted corners, bubbling, scorching, gloss, trapped dirt, and cracking after normal handling. For embroidery, inspect puckering, skipped stitches, loose threads, dense-fill distortion, and backing visibility. For labels and patches, inspect straightness, stitch security, frayed edges, glue stains, and color match.
Branding must not damage function. Heavy ink, transfer film, embroidery, or patch stitching should not curl the flap, block the snap, twist a pocket opening, weaken stitching, or make the flap close unevenly. Open and close the bag during inspection. Check strap bartacks, side seams, gusset seams, pocket seams, and closure stitching near the branded panel.
- Set placement tolerance by logo scale, not by habit.
- Inspect horizontal center, vertical position, rotation, hardware clearance, and visual balance.
- Reject obvious skew or off-center appearance even if one measurement is within tolerance.
- Check decoration defects according to process: print, transfer, embroidery, label, or patch.
- Confirm the flap closes correctly after decoration and does not warp or curl.
- Inspect multiple cartons and production points, not only top samples from one carton.
9. Packing can protect or ruin the logo
Packing is part of quality control for custom canvas messenger bags. A clean logo can be damaged after production if bags are stacked before ink is cured, packed too tightly, or placed with metal hardware pressing into the decorated panel. Flap logos are especially exposed because the flap is usually the outer face of the bag.
The packing method should match the decoration and fabric weight. Screen-printed panels need proper curing before stacking. Heat transfers need cooling before pressure is applied. Embroidery will not transfer ink, but dense stitching can press into another smooth decorated surface. For 14 oz to 16 oz canvas, carton compression can create strong crease lines if the fold runs through the logo.
Typical export packing may be 10 to 20 pieces per carton, depending on finished bag size, fabric weight, hardware, and carton weight limits. The right number is the one that protects the flap and keeps gross weight manageable. Interleaving tissue, light stuffing, flap inserts, or alternating bag orientation can reduce pressure marks. Individual polybags can protect against dust and abrasion, but buyers should specify any material, warning, recycling, or destination-market labeling requirements.
Ask for carton dimensions and gross weight before mass packing. Heavy canvas bags can exceed comfortable warehouse handling limits, and overpacked cartons increase the chance that buckles, snaps, and strap adjusters press into printed panels. If the bags are intended for cafe retail resale, request packing photos or a packed sample so the arrival presentation fits the sales channel.
- Allow prints to cure and transfers to cool before stacking or bagging.
- Prevent buckles, strap adjusters, snaps, and rivets from pressing into printed logos.
- Use interleaving, flap support, light stuffing, or alternating orientation when needed.
- Avoid flat-pack fold lines running through the main logo.
- Confirm pieces per carton, carton dimensions, and gross weight before shipment.
- Review packed sample photos if the bags will be resold as retail merchandise.
10. Use the RFQ to make supplier comparison easier
Two quotes can look close while describing very different bags. One supplier may quote 12 oz natural canvas with a one-color lower-front print and bulk packing. Another may quote 14 oz dyed canvas, front-flap screen print with underbase, side woven label, and protective carton packing. Without a controlled RFQ, the lowest unit price may simply be the least complete quote.
A normalized RFQ should include finished dimensions, canvas weight in oz and GSM, fabric color and finish, flap depth, closure type, strap material, logo position, logo size, decoration method, color count, underbase requirement, label or patch details, sample route, packing format, carton target, and inspection standard. Suppliers can propose alternatives, but the base quote should answer the same specification.
Cost detail helps procurement identify hidden drivers. The factory does not need to disclose margin, but the buyer should know whether decoration, underbase, setup, woven labels, patch tooling, sample fees, courier fees, packing upgrades, and carton dimensions are included. This matters for dark canvas, heavier GSM, custom dyed fabric, and retail packing because they affect both unit cost and landed cost.
Capability matters as much as price. A reliable supplier should be able to explain the printable area, decoration sequence, placement tolerance, sample route, and QC method. Ask for photos of similar construction if available, but do not rely on broad claims. Clear measurement communication and honest risk discussion are better buying signals than a vague low price.
- Normalize GSM, finished dimensions, logo size, logo location, decoration method, and packing before comparing unit prices.
- Confirm whether underbase printing is included for dark canvas.
- Ask whether the quote includes setup, digitizing, label setup, patch tooling, samples, and courier costs.
- Review carton dimensions and gross weight because heavy canvas affects landed cost.
- Ask how the supplier controls placement: jigs, templates, panel marks, inline checks, or finished-bag measurement.
- Choose the quote that matches the approved specification, not the quote with the fewest details.
Specification comparison for buyers
| Sourcing decision | Practical B2B specification | Best use case | Procurement or QC risk to control |
|---|---|---|---|
| Main canvas weight | 12 oz to 16 oz cotton canvas, approximately 407 to 542 GSM; ask whether weight is quoted as oz/yd², converted GSM, or measured local fabric GSM | Cafe retail merchandise, roaster staff bags, subscription gifts, distributor programs, and wholesale account gifts that need a durable hand feel | Light canvas can wrinkle around large prints; heavy canvas raises carton weight and can print unevenly near layered seams |
| Fabric finish | Natural greige, reactive dyed, pigment dyed, washed, enzyme washed, coated, or water-resistant finished canvas; approve swatches before PPS | Coffee brands using natural, black, charcoal, olive, tan, cream, or coffee-brown palettes | Washing can change shrinkage and ink shade; coated finishes can affect ink adhesion and transfer bonding |
| Bag construction | Finished dimensions, flap depth, gusset width, strap type, closure type, pocket layout, lining, and reinforcement panels confirmed before artwork approval | Programs where the logo must sit cleanly on a flap, body panel, side label, or patch | Changing pockets, snaps, or flap depth after artwork approval can shrink the usable logo zone |
| Logo position | Front flap, lower front body, back panel, side gusset, woven side label, sewn cotton patch, leather-look patch, or inner pocket mark | Front flap for visibility; side label or patch for subtle premium branding; inner mark for private-label details | Flat artwork mockups can hide seam ridges, flap folds, pocket openings, and hardware interference |
| Printable area definition | Finished-bag logo box measured in millimeters after deducting seams, fold line, hardware, edge stitching, closures, and minimum clearance | RFQs where several suppliers must quote the same placement and inspectors must measure bulk goods | Suppliers may quote different assumptions unless the finished printable area is locked before sampling |
| Decoration method | Screen print for 1 to 3 solid spot colors; heat transfer for fine detail; embroidery, woven label, or patch for small premium marks | Most roaster wordmarks, badge logos, cafe merchandise, and retail accessory programs | Embroidery can pucker canvas; transfers can look glossy or lift; screen print needs underbase on dark canvas |
| Clearance from construction details | Common RFQ starting point: 20 to 30 mm from finished edges and 25 to 35 mm from snaps, buckles, hook-and-loop, rivets, zipper ends, and heavy seams | Messenger bags with flap closures, buckle straps, front pockets, and gusseted sides | Artwork too close to hardware may print off-center, abrade during use, or become partly hidden when the flap closes |
| Placement tolerance | Typical starting point: ±5 mm for medium front logos; negotiate tighter or wider tolerance by logo size, bag size, and decoration process | Bulk inspection standards where the buyer needs measurable acceptance rules | A 5 mm shift may be fine on a large wordmark but obvious on a small badge; rotation also needs limits |
| MOQ logic | Lower MOQ for stock pattern plus standard canvas color; higher MOQ for custom dyed canvas, special webbing, labels, patches, new pattern, or retail packing | Market tests, cafe launches, distributor programs, and seasonal merchandise drops | Low MOQ quotes may exclude underbase printing, sample revisions, setup, carton protection, or Pantone matching |
Buyer checklist before sampling
- Define the logo area on the finished bag in millimeters, not only on the flat cutting pattern or digital mockup.
- State the exact logo zone: front flap, lower front body, back panel, side gusset, inner pocket, woven side label, sewn cotton patch, leather-look patch, or combination branding.
- Specify finished bag dimensions, flap depth, gusset width, strap type, closure type, pocket layout, and whether the flap is lined or reinforced.
- Specify canvas weight in both oz and GSM, and ask the supplier to confirm the conversion basis and testing method if fabric weight is critical.
- Confirm whether the same fabric weight is used for the body, flap, gusset, pocket, lining, and reinforcement panels.
- Identify the fabric finish: natural, dyed, washed, enzyme washed, pigment dyed, coated, or water-resistant finished, because print adhesion and color appearance can change.
- Match artwork to decoration: screen print for bold spot-color logos, heat transfer for detailed multicolor artwork, embroidery for small marks, woven label for subtle repeat branding, or patch for a premium retail look.
- Set maximum logo dimensions and minimum clearances from edges, fold lines, seams, snaps, buckles, hook-and-loop, zipper ends, rivets, piping, and pocket openings.
- Require supplier confirmation of the finished printable area before the quote is finalized.
- Ask whether dark canvas pricing includes a white underbase, extra screen, extra curing step, or changed hand feel.
Factory quote questions to send
- What is the finished printable area on the front flap, lower front body, back panel, and side gusset after seam allowance, fold line, pocket opening, reinforcement layers, and hardware placement are deducted?
- Please provide the proposed logo position as measurements in millimeters from finished edges, fold line, hardware centers, pocket openings, and seam lines.
- Which decoration method are you quoting, and what limitations apply to minimum line width, small text height, halftones, gradients, registration, and edge sharpness on textured canvas?
- What canvas weight are you using in oz and GSM, and is the same material used for flap, body, gusset, pocket, lining, and reinforcement pieces?
- Is the fabric natural, greige, reactive dyed, pigment dyed, garment washed, enzyme washed, coated, or treated for water resistance? Can you provide a swatch before sampling?
- Does the quoted price include one-color printing only, or does it include underbase, second screen, transfer film, embroidery digitizing, woven label setup, or patch tooling?
- If the bag is black, charcoal, dark brown, navy, or olive, is a white underbase included in the quote and shown on the printed PPS?
- Do you decorate panels before sewing, after partial assembly, or after full assembly, and how does that affect placement accuracy, print equipment setup, and defect rate?
- What placement tolerance can you hold for this style and logo size: ±3 mm, ±5 mm, or wider? How do you check skew and rotation?
- How do you control centering on flap styles with magnetic snaps, side-release buckles, hook-and-loop strips, rivets, asymmetric pockets, or contrast straps?
Quality-control points to confirm
- Logo centered to the approved reference line within the written tolerance, commonly ±5 mm for medium front logos unless the PPS sets a different standard.
- Logo width, height, and distance from finished flap edge, fold line, side seam, bottom edge, pocket opening, and nearest hardware match the signed sample or measurement sheet.
- No print overlap onto stitch lines, heavy seam ridges, fold lines, snap caps, buckle bases, hook-and-loop edges, zipper ends, rivets, piping, or pocket openings unless approved in the PPS.
- Logo is not visibly rotated, skewed, curved, stretched, or off-center when the messenger bag is closed and viewed from the front.
- Screen print coverage is acceptable for canvas texture, with no severe pinholes, ink drag, smearing, ghosting, double image, contamination, or obvious color mismatch across cartons.
- Multicolor print registration is within the agreed tolerance, especially around circular badge logos, outlines, borders, and small text.
- Heat transfer film is bonded cleanly with no lifting corners, scorching, bubbling, excessive plastic shine, dirt trapped under film, or cracking after normal handling checks.
- Embroidery lies flat without excessive puckering, skipped stitches, loose threads, broken threads, thread color mismatch, dense-fill distortion, or backing visible outside the logo area.
- Woven labels or patches are straight, securely sewn, positioned to measurement, and free from frayed edges, loose corners, glue stains, or stitch gaps.
- Canvas weight, color, weave appearance, shrinkage behavior, and hand feel are consistent with the approved sample; no unapproved substitution between flap, body, gusset, and pocket panels.